A Delightful Day In Simon's Town, Cape Town

Most tourists speed through Simon's Town on their Cape Point pilgrimage, but follow Richard Holmes's easy day-long itinerary and you'll discover a bay of plenty.

9am: It all began.

Named for Simon van der Stel, governor of the Cape colony in the late 1600s, Simon's Town is home to a few lovely museums exploring the heritage of this historic corner of Cape Town.

The Simon's Town Museum is a fairly dry look at the town's growth through the centuries and is best left for history buffs, but the South African Naval Museum next door is more family-friendly with its collection of navy bits and pieces. The Heritage Museum in Amlay House on King George Street highlights the history of the area's Muslim community.

10.30am: See a man about a dog

Simon's Town is perhaps most famous for Able Seaman "Just Nuisance", the only dog ever to be enlisted in the Royal Navy. A statue of the much-loved Great Dane is waiting to be patted in Jubilee Square, or you can visit the faithful hound's final resting place above town. Take the road up Red Hill and follow the signs to the Military Signals School, where the guard will show you the way.

11am: Hit the water

In a town that owes its existence to the sea, it's no surprise that the quayside abounds with aquatic activities. To get up close and personal with False Bay, a kayak tour is hard to beat. Kayak Cape Town (082-501-8930; www.kayakcapetown.co.za) runs two-hour kayak tours daily, with no experience necessary as they offer very stable kayaks perfect for beginners.

If that all sounds too adventurous, the Simon's Town Boat Company (083-257-7760; www.boatcompany.co.za) will keep you dry on the water. The affable Dave Hurwitz and his fleet of craft offer everything from high-speed runs to Cape Point to whale-watching excursions and cruises to Seal Island. The popular harbour cruise (R40 per adult) on the "Spirit of Just Nuisance" is a wonderful way to see Simon's Town from the water.

The Mellow Yellow Water Taxi (073-473-7684; www.watertaxi.co.za) is another option, offering regular shuttles across the bay to Kalk Bay harbour, with the chance to see whales en route in season. R150per person return.

12.30pm: Grab a bite

Come lunchtime, there's no shortage of options for filling a hungry seaman. Jubilee Square on the waterfront has a range of decent restaurants, with Bertha's a good bet for up market pub food. Just Sushi has some of the best sushi in the south, or head to the Salty Sea Dog for a parcel of fish 'n' chips to be enjoyed on the quayside. Watch out for scavenging seagulls! Up on the main road, The Meeting Place is a wonderful spot to grab a light meal and a decent coffee.

1.30pm: Take a stroll

Refilled and raring to go, the town centre is well worth a wander. Tourist kitsch is easy to spot (and avoid), but there are several intriguing antique and décor shops to explore. A short walk through the backstreets of town reveals quaint cobbled lanes and a quiet side of Simon's Town most day-trippers miss on the rush to Cape Point.

2.30pm: Peek at penguins

In the height of summer, you might have to fight the tour groups at Boulders Beach (Seaforth Road; 021-786-2329), but Cape Town's most famous penguin colony is still worth a visit. The picturesque beach is home to around 3000 African penguins, previously known as the Jackass penguin for their unmelodious braying call. R30 per person.

3.30pm:

After the honking penguins, you'll find a slice of serenity at the delightful Sophia Gallery & Tibetan Teahouse (2 Harrington Road; 021-786-1544; www.sopheagallery.com) which offers "food for body & soul". Apart from some lovely Tibetan art and décor, the teahouse is famous for its vegan menu, from egg-free carrot cake to lentil burgers and steaming chai tea. And remember, Tibetan folklore says: "Drinking tea from a wooden cup makes you handsome, popular and wise!"

4pm: Rest in Peace

End your day with a wander through the Old Burying Ground at the southern end of Runciman Drive, established in 1814 when the Royal Navy transferred its headquarters to what was then known as Simon's Bay.

Over 550 sailors lie buried here in the Garden of Remembrance, including many barely into their teens. Also keep an eye out for the graves of Boer War POWs, Italian stonemasons and Russian seamen, all of whom arrived in this picturesque port and never left.

Contact

·                     Simon's Town Tourism

·                     111 St George's Street

·                     Phone: 021-786-5880

·                     E-mail: info@simonstown.com

·                     Web: www.simonstown.com

Simple Simon

By Richard Holmes 

Article courtesy “The Times”

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